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Wild Rose Saloon Front Kit
(click on photo's for a larger image)
Make sure to use a waterproof glue suitable to your climate. If you can get waxed paper in your area, for frame elements, we dip the ends in glue and put them in place on the wax paper over the drawing. The new waxed paper we get has little wax, and works great as the glue sticks slightly to it making it stay in place. It peals off well after the glue is set, but leaves glue that might have to be trimmed later for fit with other components. As with all glues, excess is best cleaned up before it sets. If you will be doing a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear setting glue is used, and Thompson's clear water seal is used. Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where a hardened glob interferes with further construction. (Easier to remove a soft lump than a hard glob)
For cutting small material (1x2 & 1x4) a sharp knife or even side cutter can be used. For larger sizes a razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well. For fine tuning a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper. With all tools, caution and safety is important. Remember this is a real wood product. There might be some warping. Material if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together. So when you stop for the day, wrap it up. If you do get some warped pieces, carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove some of it. Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become stable. Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal to 36-40 feet in real dimension. I don't think you will find many real boards that long without some warp. Always cut longest elements first and use the leftovers for the smaller items.
Also notice the layout board we have been using. It serves as a nice flat work surface. It is made of a piece of graph paper sandwiched between two pieces of single strength glass. The edges are taped together with clear packing tape. The graph paper makes it easy to keep things square. We recommend you use wax paper to keep glue from sticking laid on the plans and on your layout board if you use one, but it isn't always available here and might not be in your area. So on with the show!
Start by laying out a base frame with 1/4" framing material per drawing #4. Outside dimensions should be 12" wide x 2 1/4" deep. Making sure to keep it square and flat. Add 1/4" x 1/2" cross piece per layout drawing. It ends up underneath where the front wall and the back edge of the porch decking attaches.
Frame front wall per layout drawing #1 with 6x6 material. Make sure to keep it square and flat. Leave off the 2 x 4, roof support until the siding is applied. Leave the bottom plate one piece (full width) until done, then cut for the door opening.
Layout 1x6 siding for front wall using the siding spacing sheet. Use tape face up (duct tape works well) sticky side up laid on top of the drawing. Don't stretch the tape or it will shorten the wall when you turn it over for gluing. Four strips between door and windows and windows and ends of wall.
Tape wrapped over edge of layout board then twisted so it can be stuck to the bottom side.
Cut 18 pieces for the top of the wall and set those aside as they will be applied last. Using the short leftovers first start at the bottom placing best side up on the front spacing drawing.
Press them firmly onto the tape working you way across adjusting as you go to stay on the lines.
Place the next board lining up its top with the next line on the spacer sheet.
Cut them to length, and work your way up to the top around the window and door openings. The tape will hold them together well enough so you can turn it over, and apply beads of glue top to bottom, and spread them out with your finger.
Leave no lumps that might interfere with gluing the siding sheet to the framing. This will hold them together so you can remove the tape and glue the siding sheet to the front frame.
Wood blocks to hold the siding sheet flat while the glue sets up.
Technique for spreading glue. Important, don't glue the tape to the siding and force the glue into the seams so it holds the siding pieces together.
All glue spread and weight applied to keep it flat with the glue sets up.
Attach 2x4 crossbeam to siding for porch roof support 1/8" in from the ends of the wall after the siding has been attached to the front wall framing. If you left the bottom 6x6 of the front wall framing one piece cut out the section at the door now.
Attach front to base frame with its backside (the 6x12 side) flush with the back of the front wall framing.
Using 2x6 for front deck area cut pieces to length (we used 49 2 1/8" long) and, lay them face down. Keeping them square and straight, apply a bead of glue to the bottom side (the side you have up facing you), and spread it with your finger or a brush. If you don't like that method, you can do them one at a time. Starting at the ends and work your way to the middle and trim the last one to fit to maintain 1/8 " overhang at the ends. If you used the mass gluing method, trim and attach this glue side down to the base.
Porch floor done, make a threshold for the door opening out of 2x6 to raise the door opening up to porch floor level.
Using 1x6 for jambs line the window and door openings. Make sure it is flush with the highest points of the lap siding.
Apply 1x4 as trim around openings. Top trim piece can be left long, as was done on old west buildings.
Using 2x2 make dividers per drawing. Adjust size as needed to fit your jambs. Install them so their back side is flush with the 1x6 jambs backside. This makes it easier to install glazing as it doesn't have to be cut to fit inside the jambs.
Make the door halves outer frame with 2x2 filling in the center with 1x6. Optional batwing style door top piece is carved from left over 2x12. Doors may be glued in open or closed position.
With 4x4 make the front porch frame. Space the 4 3 3/4" long posts per the layout drawing. Attach 4x4 corner gussets to top of posts. Attach the lower 2x4 and 2x4 rafters per the layout drawing.
A view with all the rafter parts in place.
Leave 1x12 roof boards overhang on front & sides 1/4". Start at each end and fill in the middle.
We used 22 @ 2 3/8" long. Space them approx. 1/16" apart. Adjust so they are evenly spaced with gaps narrow enough to be covered by the 1x 4 battens.
Apply the 1x4 to cover the gaps. Fill in the end frames with 1x6 siding.
Install a piece of 1x12 on each side all the way to the top of the wall. Its front edge should be flush with the high points of the 1x6 front siding.
Install 1 x 4 corner boards so the cover the front edge of the 1x12 side corner boards.
Add 2x12 cap on front wall (center top section and side sections) flush with back of front wall framing and even overhang on both sides. We left 1/8" overhang on the ends. Trim the side 1x12 corner boards as needed to fit your application.
Front view of the building as a full kit with optional bat wing door on our layout.
With signs added sitting among the wild roses it was named after.
The prototype front as used on our layout as a trading post.
Finish as you would any outside structure, making sure to seal it inside and out. Attach your finished front to wall, fence or a framing of your own.
Good Luck and Happy Railroading!
Mark & Sue Smith
Smith Pond Junctions Railroad Products
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