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2 Holer Out House Kit
(click on photo's for a larger image)
Make sure to use a waterproof glue suitable to your climate. If you can get waxed paper in your area, for frame elements, we dip the ends in glue and put them in place on the wax paper over the drawing. The new waxed paper we get has little wax, and works great as the glue sticks slightly to it making it stay in place. It peals off well after the glue is set, but leaves glue that might have to be trimmed later for fit with other components. As with all glues, excess is best cleaned up before it sets. If you will be doing a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear setting glue is used, and Thompson's clear water seal is used. Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where a hardened glob interferes with further construction. (Easier to remove a soft lump than a hard glob)
For cutting small material (1x2 & 1x4) a sharp knife or even side cutter can be used. For larger sizes a razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well. For fine tuning a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper. With all tools, caution and safety is important. Remember this is a real wood product. There might be some warping. Material if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together. So when you stop for the day, wrap it up. If you do get some warped pieces, carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove some of it. Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become stable. Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal to 36-40 feet in real dimension. I don't think you will find many real boards that long without some warp. Always cut longest elements first and use the leftovers for the smaller items.
Also notice the layout board we have been using. It serves as a nice flat work surface. It is made of a piece of graph paper sandwiched between two pieces of single strength glass. The edges are taped together with clear packing tape. The graph paper makes it easy to keep things square. We recommend you use wax paper to keep glue from sticking laid on the plans and on your layout board if you use one, but it isn't always available here and might not be in your area. So on with the show!
With the plan covered with our sheet of glass we started by marking 2x4 stock to length by laying it on the side wall drawing. Remember you will need 2 side walls. Cut long elements first using the leftovers for the shorter items. Keeping your pencil sharp makes for more accurate cuts.
After I had cut several pieces, I started gluing them together, as many pieces as I could then, weighed them down with blocks until the glue set.
Glue as many at a time as you can, then let them set for the glue to set up.
Walls glued and clamped together with spring clothes pins. Make sure it sits flat and looking from the top looks square. From this point on the layout board with the graph paper, works great as a guide to keep things square.
View of the top with the 2x4 cross brace in place.
Frame on its side, with blocks holding the siding on while the glue sets up. I like to leave the siding a little long so it overhangs the frame. Then you can trim it later with a sharp side cutter or nipper style cutter. Trim excess at the ends of the wall with a sharp exacto or utility knife.
I applied the siding on the front lining it up with the inside edges of the door frame, leaving the outside edges to trim. This is easier than trimming the inside area of the door.
I cut and used random pieces of 1x6 face down, and applied 2 ribbons of glue, spreading them with my finger. The graph paper under of the layout board I used to keep the right side square. After the glue set, I trimmed it to size. It should be approx. 2 1/2" square.
I applied glue to the top of all 4 walls, and attached the roof. Placed the whole structure upside down and checked for equal overhang on all sides, and it wasn't perfect, but it is just an outhouse. Then I placed a wood block on it to hold it firmly until the glue set.
1x4 for jamb seen in place here. This is a good place to remind you of the possibility of the glue causing moisture warp. Keep the jambs elements flush with the siding.
Again, 1x4 for the trim. Notice I left the top piece overhang the side elements, this even though simple, is a nice detail.
Same method as with the roof panel, 4 pieces of 1x6 face down.
I had enough 1x4 left to make the Z bracing for the inside of the door, but you could use 2x4 or 1x6.
Here with the door glued in place. Your choice of left, right or closed position. I just applied a bead of glue on the edge of the door and attached it to the jamb. My wife's version, she glued some cloth bias tape on as a hinge.
At this point the building is ready for finishing. Detail such as a pin head for a door knob, or a half moon cut out of electrical tape for the door. Then paint, inside and out with exterior grade finishes. Since we have low voltage lighting in our yard, we have started to use their 4 watt bulbs and power source so every night when they come on our buildings will light up. We recommend buildings be sealed inside and out after painting with a water proof clear sealer and be taken in over the winter months.
Let us know if you have any suggestions or inputs for this tips page!
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