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Grand Junction Hotel & Brothel Kit

(click on photo's for a larger image)

Glue Tips,
Use waterproof glue suitable to your climate and available in your area. As with all glues excess is best cleaned up before it sets. If you will be doing a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear setting glue is used. Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where a hardened glob interferes with further construction. (Easier to remove a soft lump than a hard glob)
Cutting Tips,
A razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well. For fine tuning a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper will shorten a board up just fine. With all tools, caution and safety is important. Remember this is a real wood product. There might be some warping. Material if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together. So when you stop for the day, wrap it up. If you do get some warped pieces, carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove some of it. Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become stable. Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal to 36-40 feet in real dimension. I don't think you will find many real boards that long without some warp. Always cut longest elements first and use the leftovers for the smaller items.
Work area,
Use a flat smooth surface to work on. We recommend you use wax paper laid on the plans and on your layout board to keep glue from sticking. So on with the show!

Overall dimensions (full size) are roughly 22’ wide x 29’ deep x 27’ tall, which is 10 1/2” x 14 1/2” x 13 1/2” tall (including front and back porches) in scale size. Use layout drawing for dimension reference.

Use a sharp pencil. You can mark most elements right off the drawings with very little measuring. Start by laying out the front wall, 2 side walls & back wall with 2x4’s standing on edge per the drawing #1. Use the plan as a pattern marking, cutting, and laying them on the layout drawing for gluing. Use common sense and think ahead.

Start with a few elements and add more until the walls are finished. Always cut long pieces first then use the short leftovers for blocking.

Front wall complete

Build roof frame with 2x6 standing on edge per drawing #2. Adjust size as needed to fit your walls as construction results can vary.

Roof framing done.

All four walls and roof framing done and ready to join together.

Assemble all wall sections together, keeping them square. See layout drawing #2 for top view detail on this. The side walls should be inside of the front and back walls.

Walls joined together from another angle. Notice they are clamped to our layout board. The layout board is sitting on wood blocks so the clamps have clearance. The graph paper under the glass makes it very easy to keep the walls square. Attach the roof framing to the top of the walls. It should be tight against to the back of the front wall and flush with the outside of the side and back walls.

Use 1x12 for roof boards, we used 23 @ 10 3/4” long. Start at the back wall and place the first one as shown on drawing #3 with equal overhang on both sides and about 1/4” over the back wall.

Cut several spacing strips from drawing #3.

Apply spacing strips as shown here. At least one over each side wall. Glue them directly to the top of the 2x6's of the roof framework. Notice you cut off the bottom piece which is the first roof board. This is the bottom end of the strips.

The strip is then glued with the bottom end against the edge of the first roof board.

Work your way to the back of the front wall.

Here at about the half way point one board after another aligning the top of the boards with the next line.

Trim the last one as needed so it fits tight against the framing of the front wall.

Apply 1x12 siding to the front wall horizontally (lapped) starting with the bottom. Cut several strips from the siding spacing strips and apply them as directed on drawing #3.
Align the bottom of the the first 1x12 flush with the bottom 2x4 plate of the front wall.

The top of the second board lined up with the next line on the spacing strip.

Trim around doors and window openings as you go.

Add additional spacing strips as needed when you get to the bottom of the upper front windows to aid in applying siding between the upper windows and the upper door. At the top of the wall trim the last pieces so they are flush with the outside edges of the wall framing. This is important so the 2x12 top cap of the wall fits well when it is installed later.

Siding completed on front wall.

Apply 1x12 vertically to the side walls. Starting at the front corners work your way to the back wall, try to get a tight fit against the bottom of the roof boards. Trim around windows as you go. Trim the last piece as needed. Remember 1x6 corner boards will cover small gaps at the corners. Same with back wall start at one corner and work your way across.

Detail here of topof first siding board, trimmed to fit against the bottom of the last roof board and extend to the top of the 2x4 framing of the front wall.

Bottom view of end 1x12 siding at the back wall. Notice it isn't flush with the end of the back wall framing. That is okay. The 1x6 corner boards that are applied later will cover this.

Again with back wall, start at one corner and work you way across trimming around openings as you go.

Apply 1x12 siding to the backside of the front wall(not lapped) horizontally.

Start with the bottom piece tight against the roof board and work your way to the top.

Trim all ends so they are flush with the 2x4 framing of the entrance wall. Then clean it up with a flat sanding block so the 2x12 wall cap will fit well.

Door and window jambs installed using 1x6. The front edge should be flush with the high points on lap siding.
Then 1x4 trim boards applied. Make sure on the doors the 1x4 spaced up at the bottom the thickness of the porch floor that gets installed later as its backside gets glued directly to the siding. A nice detail is to leave the top piece of 1x4 trim overhang the side pieces. Wait to do the 1x4 trim on the upper door on the front wall. It will be covered later.

2x2 windows dividers are optional, but a nice detail. Use the drawing as a good way to keep them square however adjust their size as needed to fit your trimmed window opening. Mark the parts to fit your openings as construction results can vary.

Then shown here center them on the drawing and mark for making a notch. You can also cut them as separate parts, however we prefer the notch method.

Mark the cross piece.

Here the pieces with the notches. We use a small band saw to do this, but it can be done with a razor saw by cutting half way through on each end of the notch and carving the center out with a hobby knife.

A drop of glue in one notch then use the drawing as a guide to square them up.

Place their backside flush with the backside of the 1x6 jambs as this makes for easier installation of glazing. Doors will be made and installed later.

Use 2x6 to make the porch floor sections per drawing #3. 2 are needed for the front wall and 1 small one for the backdoor. With wax paper on top of the plan a few beads of glue can be placed on the wax paper and then put the boards in place. Wipe off excess glue that may squeeze up between the boards as you go.

The first one complete, one more to go this size then the one for the back porch floor. Keep the backside straight checking it with a straight edge so it will fit tight against the front wall later. The front ones should extend 1/4” past the siding on the side walls. They should end up 10 1/2” wide, however if one ends up longer as one of ours did it can be used as the lower one. Just center it on the front wall. The lower on can be attached directly to the front siding at this time.

Make the front porch post assemblies with 6x6 as shown on drawing #2.

The corner gussets are made with 4x4. The front railings are made with 2x4 standing on edge. The gussets as well as the railings we installed with the backside flush with the backside of the 6x6 posts.

Top 2x4 of the railing section and a few upright pieces in place.

All the uprights in place and a block holding them down.

A dab of glue on each end of the uprights and the bottom 2x4 of the railing in place.

Railing in place. A lot of work but well worth it. Complete the top porch post assembly the same way.

Set the lower post assembly on the lower porch floor against the front siding and mark where its top is.

This is where you will attach a 2x4 the width of the post assembly centered on the front wall as the back attachment point of the 2x4 joists for the upper porch floor and the backside of the upper porch floor boards. This 2x4's top will then be at the same level as the top of the 6x6 post assembly. It should be 10” wide and its ends should be flush with the 2x4 framework of the front wall.

Attach the lower front post assembly to the lower porch floor spaced back about 1/8” from the front of the porch floor as shown in the side view on drawing #3. Block of wood on the porch floor to hold it down and then a couple of blocks sticking out of the upper door holding the post assembly down. The post assembly should be centered on the front wall as is the porch floor.

A square used on the corner post. Then measure the length for the 2x4 floor joists as shown on drawing #3.

Add the 2x4 joists as shown on drawing #3. The outer ones should be flush with the outside of the 6x6 end posts and the ends of the 2x4 attached to the front wall. Our joists were 2 1/8” long.

Mark every 2 inches along the top of the post assembly and then the 2x4 on the siding of the front wall. This is where the other joists will go.

Then 4 more 2x4 joists can be spaced evenly across the front wall and will be approximately 2” on centers.

Add the upper porch floor centered on the front wall and its backside tight against the front siding. Make sure its bottom is tight on the joists and other support members. Clamp as needed.

Now add the 1x4 trim around the upper door.

Same as with the lower post assembly, place the upper one sitting on the upper porch floor against the front siding and mark its top for locating the next 2x4 cross piece. Its top should be 21/32” above that point and centered on the front wall. It will be the attachment point for the 2x4 rafters and 1x12 porch roof boards.

Attach the upper post assembly spaced same as the lower one and add the 2x4 lower rafters spaced same as the joists under the upper porch floor. Their backside will attach directly to the siding with its top flush at the siding with the line made earlier with the post assembly. Notice how the blocks are hooked under the 2x4 cross piece on the front wall and holding the upper post assembly in place.

All lower rafter parts in place. Notice spacing same as done for the lower porch floor joists.

2x4 upper rafters added to the top porch roof as shown on drawing #3. Adjust as needed to fit your construction results. Their backside should attach to the 2x4 cross piece.

All the top rafters in place.

Build the side porch railings per drawing #2 adjust length as needed to fit your construction results and attach them. Their bottom should be same height as the other railings.

Make the back post assembly with 4x4.

Add the backdoor porch floor centered on the back door opening and add the post assembly and rafters with the same technique as used with the front porch.

Use 1x12 for the porch roof boards. With the front start at each end with 1/4” overhang on the sides and front. The backside should be tight against the siding and resting on the 2x4 cross piece.

Space them evenly across the front. We used 19 pieces 2 7/8” long.

Then add the 1x4 batten boards covering the gaps between the 1x12 boards. We left them 1/8” longer than needed to use that little extra bit to hold onto when putting them in place. The ends can be trimmed off later with a side cutter or sharp knife.

The back porch roof is done the same. We used 5 pieces 2” long and butted tight together.

Batten boards applied to the back porch roof.

Trim the ends of the batten boards. We use a side cutter trimmer that is used in the electronics industry, but you could use other side cutters.

Fill in the porch roof rafters front and back with 1x6 as shown on drawing #3. Start at the wall and work your way to the end trimming as needed.

Attach the 2x12 cap to the top of the front wall as shown on drawing #2 in green. And front to back spacing per the side view on drawing #3

Front view of 2x12 cap installed.

Next 1x6 is used for corner boards. Bottom of drawing #3 shows their overlap relationship. View from a bottom back corner shown here.

Add the side boards first and trim as needed around other parts of the structure so its front edge ends up flush with the high points of the siding.

Then the front corner board applied so it covers the edge of the side one and trim as needed around structure parts as needed. Extra detail shown on drawing #3 of the ones on the front facade. Upper and lower done as separate pieces. Upper one in our case was tight against the upper side railings.

Lower front side corner board done.

Facade front corner board just above the porch roof.

1x6 side corner board applied to side of top of the facade. It's front edge should be flush with the high points of the lapped front siding boards.

Front corner board on the upper part of the facade. Notice the notched detail shown on drawing #3.

We decided to add thresholds to the bottom of the door openings. Made from scraps of 1x12. Then had to adjust door size. However we thought it was a nice added detail and a good way to use up some scraps of lumber.

Make the double front door and backdoor per drawing #1. Adjust their size to fit your door openings. First frame in the outside with 2x4 laid flat.

Add 1x6 vertically or horizontally as desired to the backside of the lower opening.

2x2 added as window dividers. Then attach them in open or closed position your choice.

Easy way to trim doors is to sand the sides with a piece of 100 grit sand paper laid on a flat surface. Sand a few strokes and check the fit. If they don't fit that well in a closed position then leave them open.

The sign was scraps glued to form a background. Then paint it white so its cedar color doesn't bleed through the paper. We cut the sign from drawing #2 and glued it to the board. We used exterior latex white paint and rubber cement applied to the back of the paper. The trick is to apply the rubber cement quick and slap the paper in place real quick as the rubber cement dries so quickly.

Trimmed the base sign on the lines shown above and used leftover 2x6 on edge to frame it and give it some depth. Then painted the 2x6 same color as the trim on the building. We use as permanent ink as our printers can handle so it should look good for a couple of years.

Above painted, we used dark red for the walls, light brown for the trim and dark brown for the porch roof. Sign in place and the 2x6 boarder painted the same brown as the trim. The sign should be sealed with clear spray paint. We like the inexpensive stuff at Walmart. A light dusting at first then a few more coats after that dries. The light coat first will keep the paper from becoming more translucent than solid and the ink from running. We use brass brads for the front door knobs, cutting them about 1/4” long and drilling holes for them. Once they were through the door a dab of glue on the backside to hold them in place.

Finish with exterior paints, as you would a real outdoor building and seal inside and out with a good clear exterior sealer. We recommend buildings be taken in over the winter months.


Good Luck and Happy Railroading!



Mark & Sue Smith
Smith Pond Junctions Railroad Products

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