Glue Tips,
Use waterproof glue suitable to your climate and available in your area. As
with all glues excess is best cleaned up before it sets. If you will be doing
a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear
setting glue is used. Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where
a hardened glob interferes with further construction. (Easier to remove a
soft lump than a hard glob) Cutting Tips,
A razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well. For fine tuning
a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece
vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper
will shorten a board up just fine. With all tools, caution and safety is important.
Remember this is a real wood product. There might be some warping. Material
if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together.
So when you stop for the day, wrap it up. If you do get some warped pieces,
carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove
some of it. Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become
stable. Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal
to 36-40 feet in real dimension. I don't think you will find many real boards
that long without some warp. Always cut longest elements first and use the
leftovers for the smaller items. Work area,
Use a flat smooth surface to work on. We recommend you use wax paper laid
on the plans and on your layout board to keep glue from sticking. So on with
the show!
Overall dimensions (full size) are roughly 20’ wide x 23’ deep
x 20’ tall, which is 10”x 11 1/2” (including front and back
porches) x 10” tall in scale size. Use layout drawing for dimension reference.
Use a sharp pencil. You can mark most elements right off the drawings with
very little measuring. Start by laying out the front wall and right side wall
with 2x4’s standing on edge per the drawing #1. Use the plan as a pattern
marking, cutting, and laying them on the layout drawing for gluing. Use common
sense and think ahead. Start with a few elements and add more until the walls
are finished.
Then back and left side walls and roof framing per drawing #2.
Front wall complete
All 4 walls complete. Now with 2x6 on edge build the roof support framing.
Assemble all wall sections together, keeping them square.
Sidewalls should be inside the front and back walls, (see layout drawing #2
for detail on this).
Attach the roof support framing making sure it is flush with the outside of
both side walls and the top of it at the back wall is flush so the back wall
siding will attach flat at the top. Notice its orientation to the back of
the front wall.
This photo shows orientation to back wall. Notice the top edge because of
the angle is flush with the back wall however the bottom of the 2x6 isn't.
This will give a good attachment point for the top of the back wall siding.
Apply 1x12 siding to the front wall horizontally starting with the bottom.
Trim around doors and window openings as you go. Align the bottom of the the
first 1x12 flush with the bottom 2x4 plate of the front wall. Cut several
strips from the siding spacing strips and apply them as directed on drawing
#3.
Siding spacing strips placed on several of the front wall studs.
Second piece of siding applied. Notice the top of it is aligned with the first
line on the siding spacing strip.
At the top of the wall trim the last pieces so they are flush with the outside
edges of the wall framing. This is important so the 2x12 top cap of the wall
fits well when it is installed later.
We left the very top pieces a little long then trimmed them all at the same
time to be flush with the top of the front wall framing.
Top trimmed.
Apply 1x12 roofing starting at the back wall. Leave 5/16” overhang over
the back wall framing. This is so you will have approximately 1/4” overhang
once the back wall siding is applied later. Leave 5/16” overhang on the
ends so you will end up with approximately 1/4” overhang on each end
of the side walls once that siding is applied.
Again spacing strips applied.
Next piece aligned with the next line on the spacing strip. Work toward the
back of the front wall. Trim the last piece as needed so it fits tight against
the wall framing.
Roof complete. On the prototype the last board didn't need to be trimmed.
We used 18 pieces total 10 5/8” long.
Apply 1x12 horizontally to the backside of the front wall starting at the
top roof board. The work you way to the peak butting them tight together (not
lapped) and trimming so the ends and sides are flush with the front wall framing.
Same as with the siding on the front side we left the 1x12 on the backside
long then trimmed it flush with the framing of the front wall so the 2x12
top cap that gets applied later fits tight to the siding.
Start at the front corner of one side wall and apply 1x12 siding vertically
butted tightly together.
Trim so they fit tight against the bottom of the roof boards and around window
openings as you go. Trim last piece at the back so its backside is flush with
the backside of the back wall framing. Then do the same with the other sidewall.
If you left the backdoor opening in the position shown on the drawing, start
at that end applying 1x12 siding vertically and work your way to the other
corner trimming as you go. Right shows the siding finished on all walls.
Using 1x6 for window and door jambs make sure the front edge is flush with
the siding. No jamb at the bottom of the doors.
Apply 1x4 trim. We usually leave the top trim piece extend a little over each
side. When doing the 1x4 on the doors, remember to shorten them up at the
bottom to allow for attachment of the 2x thick porch floors.
Add window dividers made from 2x2 to windows as desired. Material included
in the kit for all windows if you desire. Measure them to fit your openings
as the drawing doesn’t include the jamb material and construction results
can vary. We use the drawing just as a square reference.
Dividers shown in the front window. Their backside should be flush with the
back of the 1x6 jambs. This makes it easy to add glazing to the back side
without having to trim it to fit the opening. We like to use scrap single
pane glass, or clear plastic cut from blister packs or document protectors.
The dividers are optional and add to the difficulty of the building, however
we think it adds a really great detail.
With 2x6 laid flat make the front porch floor per drawing #1.
Here you can see the last piece extends over the line of the end of the porch
floor of the drawing. We left it that way and centered the entire floor on
the front wall.
Back porch floor per drawing #2.
Attach the front and back porch floors directly to the siding centered on
the doors in their respective locations.
There maybe a slight gap depending on how you did the siding at the base of
the door. Between the back of the 2x porch floor and the 2x4 bottom plate
of the front wall at the bottom of the door opening. You can cut a sliver
of wood to fill it, or make a threshold from a scrap of 1x12. However if you
do that you will have to shorten your doors slightly to fit.
Back door shown here. Make 2 doors one front per drawing #1 and back per
drawing #2 with 2x4 laid flat. Adjust door size as needed to fit your finished
openings especially if you added a threshold at the bottom of the door opening.
1x6 applied to the back of the lower half to fill it in. We placed ours vertically.
2x2 window dividers if desired. The doors should be attached later if you
plan on gluing them in an open position as this will keep you from possibly
breaking them off when finishing the porches.
Using 4x4 make the front porch post assembly per drawing #1
and the back porch post assembly per drawing #2.
With the building face up we laid the post frames in place. Notice the 2x4
added with its top 1/2” above the top of the post frame assembly. This
is the attachment point for rafters and the top end of the porch roof boards.
This 2x4 is the same length as the top of its respective post assembly. Then
attach the post assemblies to their respective positions center from side
to side and spaced from the wall per drawing #3.
A unique method of holding the front post assembly in place using wood blocks.
You could use a drinking glass or anything of correct height in place of the
pile on the right. Just make sure it is close in height to the post assembly.
Then an old hard back book used instead of the wood block on top.
Make and install the lower rafter parts from 2x4. There is only 3 rafters
needed, with the middle one centered on the center post of the front post
assembly and only 2 rafters needed for the back porch roof.
Back porch post assembly in place.
2x4 added as on front wall over the back door.
Top rafters in place on front wall.
Top rafters on back porch in place.
Apply 1x12 roof boards front to back on front and back porch roof. Leave 1/4”
overhang on each end and the bottom end 1/4” over the post assembly.
Butt them as tightly as possible together. Start at each end and work towards
the middle. We used 21 pieces on the front porch roof and 5 on the back 2”
long.
When you have about 4 boards left in the middle, do a test fitting and trim
as needed so they fit. If you have spaces between, make sure they are narrow
enough to cover with the 1x2 batten strips.
Fill in the ends of the porch rafter area with 1x6 per drawing #3. Don't be
to picky with the length as some hanging done slightly more than adjacent
ones adds character.
Attach 1x2 battens over the seams between the 1x12 roof boards. Leave 1/4-1/2”
longer than needed to leave a little extra to hold. This makes it much easier
to put them on.
The extra material can be trimmed off later with a side cutter, or hobby knife.
We used 20 on the front porch roof and 4 on the back 2 3/8” long.
Install the 2x12 cap to the top of the facade. Reference to its application
is on drawing #1 & 3. Adjust it to your taste front to back. I like to
center it.
Then leave it about 5/16” on the outside ends so that after application
of 1x6 corner boards, you will have about 1/4” overhang.
Use 1x6 for corner boards. See drawing #3 for overlap detail.
Trim around porch roof ends etc. as needed. Notice notch to fit around porch
floor board.
The front/back corner boards should cover the edge of the side corner boards.
Also note detail for the facade on drawing #3.
Attach the doors, open or closed position your choice.
Rear view showing the back door and porch. Ready for paint and detail.
A sign made from scrap. Painted in gray tones from light to charcoal gray.
Ready for glazing and details, door knob chimney etc.
Finish with exterior paints, as you would a real outdoor building and seal
inside and out with a good clear exterior sealer. We recommend buildings be
taken in over the winter months.
Good
Luck and Happy Railroading!
Thanks,
Mark & Sue Smith Smith
Pond Junctions Railroad Products Team@spjrr.com
Use a sharp pencil. You can mark most elements right off the drawings with very little measuring. Start by laying out the front wall and right side wall with 2x4’s standing on edge per the drawing #1. Use the plan as a pattern marking, cutting, and laying them on the layout drawing for gluing. Use common sense and think ahead. Start with a few elements and add more until the walls are finished.
Then back and left side walls and roof framing per drawing #2.
Front wall complete
All 4 walls complete. Now with 2x6 on edge build the roof support framing.
Assemble all wall sections together, keeping them square.
Sidewalls should be inside the front and back walls, (see layout drawing #2 for detail on this).
Attach the roof support framing making sure it is flush with the outside of both side walls and the top of it at the back wall is flush so the back wall siding will attach flat at the top. Notice its orientation to the back of the front wall.
This photo shows orientation to back wall. Notice the top edge because of the angle is flush with the back wall however the bottom of the 2x6 isn't. This will give a good attachment point for the top of the back wall siding.
Apply 1x12 siding to the front wall horizontally starting with the bottom. Trim around doors and window openings as you go. Align the bottom of the the first 1x12 flush with the bottom 2x4 plate of the front wall. Cut several strips from the siding spacing strips and apply them as directed on drawing #3.
Siding spacing strips placed on several of the front wall studs.
Second piece of siding applied. Notice the top of it is aligned with the first line on the siding spacing strip.
At the top of the wall trim the last pieces so they are flush with the outside edges of the wall framing. This is important so the 2x12 top cap of the wall fits well when it is installed later.
We left the very top pieces a little long then trimmed them all at the same time to be flush with the top of the front wall framing.
Top trimmed.
Apply 1x12 roofing starting at the back wall. Leave 5/16” overhang over the back wall framing. This is so you will have approximately 1/4” overhang once the back wall siding is applied later. Leave 5/16” overhang on the ends so you will end up with approximately 1/4” overhang on each end of the side walls once that siding is applied.
Again spacing strips applied.
Next piece aligned with the next line on the spacing strip. Work toward the back of the front wall. Trim the last piece as needed so it fits tight against the wall framing.
Roof complete. On the prototype the last board didn't need to be trimmed. We used 18 pieces total 10 5/8” long.
Apply 1x12 horizontally to the backside of the front wall starting at the top roof board. The work you way to the peak butting them tight together (not lapped) and trimming so the ends and sides are flush with the front wall framing.
Same as with the siding on the front side we left the 1x12 on the backside long then trimmed it flush with the framing of the front wall so the 2x12 top cap that gets applied later fits tight to the siding.
Start at the front corner of one side wall and apply 1x12 siding vertically butted tightly together.
Trim so they fit tight against the bottom of the roof boards and around window openings as you go. Trim last piece at the back so its backside is flush with the backside of the back wall framing. Then do the same with the other sidewall.
If you left the backdoor opening in the position shown on the drawing, start at that end applying 1x12 siding vertically and work your way to the other corner trimming as you go. Right shows the siding finished on all walls.
Using 1x6 for window and door jambs make sure the front edge is flush with the siding. No jamb at the bottom of the doors.
Apply 1x4 trim. We usually leave the top trim piece extend a little over each side. When doing the 1x4 on the doors, remember to shorten them up at the bottom to allow for attachment of the 2x thick porch floors.
Add window dividers made from 2x2 to windows as desired. Material included in the kit for all windows if you desire. Measure them to fit your openings as the drawing doesn’t include the jamb material and construction results can vary. We use the drawing just as a square reference.
Dividers shown in the front window. Their backside should be flush with the back of the 1x6 jambs. This makes it easy to add glazing to the back side without having to trim it to fit the opening. We like to use scrap single pane glass, or clear plastic cut from blister packs or document protectors. The dividers are optional and add to the difficulty of the building, however we think it adds a really great detail.
With 2x6 laid flat make the front porch floor per drawing #1.
Here you can see the last piece extends over the line of the end of the porch floor of the drawing. We left it that way and centered the entire floor on the front wall.
Back porch floor per drawing #2.
Attach the front and back porch floors directly to the siding centered on the doors in their respective locations.
There maybe a slight gap depending on how you did the siding at the base of the door. Between the back of the 2x porch floor and the 2x4 bottom plate of the front wall at the bottom of the door opening. You can cut a sliver of wood to fill it, or make a threshold from a scrap of 1x12. However if you do that you will have to shorten your doors slightly to fit.
Back door shown here. Make 2 doors one front per drawing #1 and back per drawing #2 with 2x4 laid flat. Adjust door size as needed to fit your finished openings especially if you added a threshold at the bottom of the door opening.
1x6 applied to the back of the lower half to fill it in. We placed ours vertically.
2x2 window dividers if desired. The doors should be attached later if you plan on gluing them in an open position as this will keep you from possibly breaking them off when finishing the porches.
Using 4x4 make the front porch post assembly per drawing #1
and the back porch post assembly per drawing #2.
With the building face up we laid the post frames in place. Notice the 2x4 added with its top 1/2” above the top of the post frame assembly. This is the attachment point for rafters and the top end of the porch roof boards. This 2x4 is the same length as the top of its respective post assembly. Then attach the post assemblies to their respective positions center from side to side and spaced from the wall per drawing #3.
A unique method of holding the front post assembly in place using wood blocks. You could use a drinking glass or anything of correct height in place of the pile on the right. Just make sure it is close in height to the post assembly. Then an old hard back book used instead of the wood block on top.
Make and install the lower rafter parts from 2x4. There is only 3 rafters needed, with the middle one centered on the center post of the front post assembly and only 2 rafters needed for the back porch roof.
Back porch post assembly in place.
2x4 added as on front wall over the back door.
Top rafters in place on front wall.
Top rafters on back porch in place.
Apply 1x12 roof boards front to back on front and back porch roof. Leave 1/4” overhang on each end and the bottom end 1/4” over the post assembly. Butt them as tightly as possible together. Start at each end and work towards the middle. We used 21 pieces on the front porch roof and 5 on the back 2” long.
When you have about 4 boards left in the middle, do a test fitting and trim as needed so they fit. If you have spaces between, make sure they are narrow enough to cover with the 1x2 batten strips.
Fill in the ends of the porch rafter area with 1x6 per drawing #3. Don't be to picky with the length as some hanging done slightly more than adjacent ones adds character.
Attach 1x2 battens over the seams between the 1x12 roof boards. Leave 1/4-1/2” longer than needed to leave a little extra to hold. This makes it much easier to put them on.
The extra material can be trimmed off later with a side cutter, or hobby knife. We used 20 on the front porch roof and 4 on the back 2 3/8” long.
Install the 2x12 cap to the top of the facade. Reference to its application is on drawing #1 & 3. Adjust it to your taste front to back. I like to center it.
Then leave it about 5/16” on the outside ends so that after application of 1x6 corner boards, you will have about 1/4” overhang.
Use 1x6 for corner boards. See drawing #3 for overlap detail.
Trim around porch roof ends etc. as needed. Notice notch to fit around porch floor board.
The front/back corner boards should cover the edge of the side corner boards.
Also note detail for the facade on drawing #3.
Attach the doors, open or closed position your choice.
Rear view showing the back door and porch. Ready for paint and detail.
A sign made from scrap. Painted in gray tones from light to charcoal gray. Ready for glazing and details, door knob chimney etc.
