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Georges' Garage Kit
(click on photo's for a larger image)
Use waterproof glue suitable to your climate. If you can get waxed paper in your area, for frame elements, we dip the ends in glue and put them in place on the wax paper over the drawing. The new waxed paper we get has little wax, and works great as the glue sticks slightly to it making parts stay in place. It peals off well after the glue is set, but leaves glue that might have to be trimmed later for fit with other components. As with all glues excess is best cleaned up before it sets. If you will be doing a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear setting glue is used. Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where a hardened glob interferes with further construction. (Easier to remove a soft lump than a hard glob)
For cutting small material (1x2 & 1x4) a sharp knife or even side cutter can be used. For larger sizes a razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well. For fine tuning a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper will shorten a board up just fine. With all tools, caution and safety is important. Remember this is a real wood product. There might be some warping. Material if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together. So when you stop for the day, wrap it up. If you do get some warped pieces, carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove some of it. Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become stable. Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal to 36-40 feet in real dimension. I don't think you will find many real boards that long without some warp. Always cut longest elements first and use the leftovers for the smaller items.
The layout board we have been using serves as a nice flat work surface. It is made of a piece of graph paper sandwiched between two pieces of single strength glass. The edges are taped together with clear packing tape to hold both sheets together and cover the sharp edges. The graph paper makes it easy to keep things square. We recommend you use wax paper laid on the plans and on your layout board to keep glue from sticking. So on with the show!
This kit a little different from our earlier kits. The main building will be built first and sided. Then the service bay added to it. One more time, read complete instructions before you begin and look over the plans. This is the most complex kit and plan set we have created to this date. More detail to help you with your modeling experience. Think about changes of window/door locations. Also with this kit we put in a character setback of the service bay. This is adjustable. We did the prototype with ½" setback. There is enough material in the kit to use up to a 2" setback, your choice.
Main building structure first, With 2x4 layout the front wall per drawing # 1, back wall and non service bay wall per drawing # 2, service bay side wall per drawing #3. Front wall here a couple of elements. Use the plan as a pattern marking and cutting as you go. Lay a sheet of plastic, glass or wax paper over the plan and you can glue the components together on the plan without them sticking.
Add as many elements as you can. Cut longer pieces first and use left overs for the short stuff.
Non service bay wall. Window in non service bay wall is optional. There is enough material to put the same size window in the back wall if desired.
Back wall of the main structure, we chose no window.
Assemble these walls per the overhead view on drawing # 6.
Then assemble the roof support with 2x4 to fit your results per drawing # 4 and attach. Keep things as square as possible. Shown her clamped in place
Siding on main structure, 1x12 lapped on front wall per drawing # 8. About 1/32" overlap. First piece at bottom shown here. Work your way to the top of the wall trimming your way around openings as you go. It is easier to trim as you go than do it later. Also see the spacing strips on drawing #7, an idea we have been toying with to find an easier way for builders to space the siding or lapped roof boards. Try it and let us know if it works for you!
Next couple pieces added. Measure from bottom of wall as you go to keep them looking level.
Front wall siding finished. Trim last piece at top as needed.
Apply 1x12 horizontally on the backside of the front wall framing. It should be placed as tightly together as possible and remember to leave a gap at the bottom (approx 1/32") to allow for the 1x12 roof board to fit underneath it for a more weather tight seal as shown on drawing #8.
Trim last piece at top as needed.
On the side walls, start at the front corners applying the siding vertically. The front edge of the first front piece should be lined up with the front of the 2x4 end element of the front wall. The backside needs to be trimmed above the sidewall so it is flush with the back of the siding applied to the backside of the front wall façade.
Butt the boards up together as tight as possible working your way to the end of the wall. Trim the last board as necessary. Add siding to back wall in the same manner.
Apply 1x12 roof boards to the main section lapped as shown on # 3 & # 8 with approx. 1/32" overlap. Start at back wall with first piece 1/4" overhang on side and back walls.
We used 12 pieces 7 5/8" long. Start with first piece at the back wall. It should overhang the back and sides ¼". Work you way to the back of the front wall. Trim last piece so it fits under the siding on the backside of the front façade.
Apply 2x12 cap per drawing # 8 with ¼" overhang on each end and approx. 1/16" on backside siding.
Use 1x6 for door and window jambs aligning the front flush with siding, then apply 1x4 as trim. Leave top element of trim 1/8" longer so it overhangs the side trim as a nice detail if desired. Wait until later to install the doors and window dividers.
Service bay structure, With 2x4 layout the front wall per drawing #1, back wall per drawing # 3, outer wall per drawing # 4, and short wall per drawing # 5. Remember to adjust the short wall. You will need to make it longer if you change the setback. We chose ½" setback for some character to the front of the building. There is enough material for you to make it up to a 2" setback. What change you add to the setback, make sure to add it to the short wall as well as move the side door of the main structure side wall as much or leave the door out. However, the door will be a nice detail if you leave the service bay doors in the open position.
Attach the service bay walls to the main building structure per drawing #6 with 1/2" setback.
With 2x4 layout, the service bay roof support per drawing # 5. Adjust its size as needed to fit your construction results and attach it to the walls.
Siding on service bay, start with the front wall where the service bay front wall meets the side wall of the main building section. Apply the 1x12 siding vertically placing them side by side as tight together as you can.
Trim around openings as you go and so their tops are flush with the top of the roof support. Apply siding in same manner on all walls.
Use 1x6 for the jambs of the large door opening and trim with 1x6 as you did the with the 1x4 around the other windows and doors. The door sections will be built and installed later.
Apply 1x12 roof boards to the service bay parallel to the front wall of the building. Lay flat with ¼" overhang on all outside edges and butted tightly together. Shown here each end piece with proper 1/4" overhang on ends and sides. We used 17 pieces 7 3/8" long. Then apply 1x4 batten boards over the seams between the boards. Trimmed a board about 1/16" in the center then fudged batten boards so it wasn't noticable.
Trim as needed at the point where the side wall of the main structure ends so you have ¼" overhang over the short wall as well. Details of this are shown on drawing # 5.
Use 2x12 to assemble the pump island roof framing per drawing # 7. Notice 2x12 trim on post base started.
Cut 2 12x12 posts, 6 ½" long. Add the 2x12 around the base at this time. Attach as support posts at the outer end of the pump island joist assembly per drawing # 8. They should be inside the corners of the framing with the exposed lower part being 6" long. Notice square checking things for square. 2x12 trim on post bottoms sanded and beveled on the top.
Attach directly to the front wall siding 6 1/2" from the bottom of the front wall to the top of the 2x12 joist assembly. You can raise this dimension by 1/8" for better drainage if you desire, we didn't. If you do this you should make allowance in the front posts.
Apply 1x12 roofing to the pump island roof side to side, laid flat (not lapped) and butted tightly together. Start at the back keeping the first piece as tight as possible to the siding of the front wall. Work your way to the front. We used 11 pieces 7" long and a 1x4 leftover to fill the end. You can use 1x12 and trim it as needed or find something closer as we did on the last board to save the trimming. Trim flush with the outside edges of the framing.
Add 2x4 as trim so it covers the ends of the 1x12 roof boards per drawing # 8.
Make 2 main section doors per drawing # 3 using the door plan as a guide. Cut the 2x4 side rails, bottom, top, and center stiles, to fit your door opening (ours ended up 1 1/8" wide). Cut 1x6 boards to fill in the lower half, and leave them longer than the opening, they get glued on from behind and can be placed vertical or horizontal.
Install 2x2 window and door dividers. Measure them to fit your openings, as the drawings don't have the jambs drawn in and material thickness and construction results can vary. Here we used a wall plan to keep them square. But notice if you look close one is out, but we don't strive for totally perfect. We believe the overall perspective is what is important.
Use the plan as a guide to keep them square, laying your divider parts on it for gluing. Dividers are optional, but detract for lack of interior detail. Front window shown here and is a great detail.
Apply 1x6 corner boards on all outside corners, per overlap example on drawing # 8. Trim around pump island roof as necessary. Glue the doors in open or closed position, left or right hand operation your choice. Use a stick pin head for a knob.
Build 4 door sections for the service bay per drawing # 4. Make frames with 2x4, and apply 1x6 filler on the backside. Variations shown with red lines of filler application horizontal, vertical and opposing directions at a 45% angle.
We chose to use alternating 45% application for added character and used 12 pieces of 1x6 2" long and added short scraps as needed on the ends. Again, adjust size as needed to fit your construction results..
1x6 fill on the backside shown here. This is especially critical if you plan on attaching them closed.
We decided we wanted them in the bi-folded open position so a vehicle could be placed inside in full view
At this point done and ready for paint and detailing.
Painted with exterior acrylic latex. Signs, pumps and vehicles added. The pumps are from Gearbox Collectables. The diecast cars found at a local grocery store for around 5 dollars each. Small handles were added to the service bay doors made from a 1/4" wide staple with the legs shortened. Then glued in place. Small brass brads added to the other doors as door knobs.
The top triangle shaped sign assemble rotates. A base with a pointed piece of 1/16" welding rod sticking up was glued to the pump island roof. The triangle sign body has a piece of 1/8" od brass tube glued in the center with the top end closed off with a blob of solder.
The sandwich board as well as all the signs were made from leftover scraps. Glazing left out so it didn't cause flash reflections for the photos and will be done after the building is sealed inside and out.
Now all that remains is to seal it inside and out before adding to our layout.
Just remember to seal the structure inside and out to keep moisture problems to a minimum. Finish with exterior paints, as you would a real outdoor building. We recommend buildings be taken in over the winter months.
Good Luck and Happy Railroading!
Mark & Sue Smith
Smith Pond Junctions Railroad Products
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