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Barber Shop Front Kit

(click on photo's for a larger image)

Glue Tips,

         Make sure to use a waterproof glue suitable to your climate. If you can get waxed paper in your area, for frame elements, we dip the ends in glue and put them in place on the wax paper over the drawing. The new waxed paper we get has little wax, and works great as the glue sticks slightly to it making it stay in place. It peals off well after the glue is set, but leaves glue that might have to be trimmed later for fit with other components. As with all glues, excess is best cleaned up before it sets.  If you will be doing a clear finish, we have found that small glue mistakes don't show if clear setting glue is used, and Thompson's clear water seal is used.  Still it is best to clean up, especially areas where a hardened glob interferes with further construction.  (Easier to remove a soft lump than a hard glob)

Cutting Tips,

     For cutting small material (1x2 & 1x4) a sharp knife or even side cutter can be used.  For larger sizes a razor saw or band saw with a fine tooth blade works well.  For fine tuning a piece of sandpaper laid on a flat surface works great, holding the piece vertical and giving it a few strokes with light pressure across the sandpaper.  With all tools, caution and safety is important. Remember this is a real wood product.  There might be some warping.  Material if not being used for a while (overnight) should be wrapped or bundled together.  So when you stop for the day, wrap it up.  If you do get some warped pieces, carefully bend them in the opposite direction and you can temporarily remove some of it.  Once it is glued together as a composite structure it will become stable.  Most material is shipped in 18"-20" lengths, that is equal to 36-40 feet in real dimension.  I don't think you will find many real boards that long without some warp.  Always cut longest elements first and use the leftovers for the smaller items.

Layout Boards,

   Also notice the layout board we have been using. It serves as a nice flat work surface. It is made of a piece of graph paper sandwiched between two pieces of single strength glass.  The edges are taped together with clear packing tape.  The graph paper makes it easy to keep things square.  We recommend you use wax paper to keep glue from sticking laid on the plans and on your layout board if you use one, but it isn't always available here and might not be in your area. So on with the show!

Start by laying out front wall (top of facade shown to the left) with 2x4 per drawing #1. Use the plan as a pattern marking and cutting as you go. Lay a sheet of wax paper over the plan and you can glue the components together on the plan without them sticking. Framed door opening should be left 1 1/4" x 3 5/16" to allow for doorjambs. Notice the top elements on the drawing are the 2x12 cap shown for future placement. It will be installed later. Add a few elements at a time until the front wall is done.

Apply 1x12 siding horizontal to the front wall starting at the bottom (overlapped like real lap siding).

Use about 1/32 " overlap, working your way to the peak and trimming around openings as you go. Trim the top edges to be flush with the edges of the façade framing.

Apply 2x12 cap per the drawing, starting with the horizontal tops of the added side frames.

Let it overhang the back side about 1/8", and the ends about ¼". After both sides are done, continue with it up to the peak keeping it as tight as possible to the edges of the siding.

Use 1x6 for door and window jambs aligning the front flush with the high points of the siding, then apply 1x4 as trim. Leave top element of trim 1/8" longer it overhangs the side trim as a typical old west detail.

Make the door using the door plan as a guide, and cut the 2x4 side rails, bottom, top, and center stiles, to fit your door opening (ours ended up 1 1/8" wide).

Cut 1x6 boards to fill in the lower half, and leave them longer than the opening, they get glued on from behind and can be placed vertical or horizontal.

Install 2x2 window and door dividers. Measure them to fit your openings, as the drawings don't have the jambs drawn in and material thickness and construction results can vary. Use the plan as a guide to keep them square, laying your divider parts on it for gluing.

Window dividers installed in door and window.

Apply 1x12 corner boards on the sides with the front edge flush with the high points of the front wall siding.

Add 1x6 corner boards on the front so they are flush with the outside edge of the 1x12 side corner boards. See the corner board overlap example on the drawing. Trim the 1x12 corner board as desired to work well with your application.

Threshold made from 2x12 scrap. Trimmed as necessary to fit around 1x4 face trim so it connects firmly with the 2x4 bottom plate of the front wall.

Glue the door in open or closed position, left or right hand operation your choice. Use a stick pin head for a knob

Finish as you would any outside structure, making sure to seal it inside and out. Attach your finished front to wall, fence or a framing of your own.

Shown here with sign and detail added. Finish as you would any outside structure, making sure to seal it inside and out. Attach your finished front to wall, fence or a framing of your own.

As we always say, it doesn't have to be used for the original use we name it as. Here used as Lennys' car parts in a more late 50's setting with car parts from a 1/24th model car kit. Ya know the parts that are left over on kits that don't get used.

Good Luck and Happy Railroading!

 

Thanks,

Mark & Sue Smith
Smith Pond Junctions Railroad Products
Team@spjrr.com

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